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Victor's, Provincetown, Massachusetts

By Anthony Daries | July 23, 2010

Elegant Dining

Towns throughout America have been impacted by men and women who have left their marks on their communities in any numbers of ways. A short walk through New York City reveals the massive brick and mortar footprint of business magnates like Donald Trump.

So how does architect and real estate developer Victor Depoala, owner of Victor’s, a hot new restaurant in Provincetown, Massachusetts, plan to leave his mark on the historic Portuguese fishing village without overpowering its signature quaintness?

Sometimes the strongest statement is understatement. Lucky for Depoala, this seems to be the unspoken motto of Provincetown. I may have been greeted at the pier by a pilgrim in gold-buckled bike shorts, but the essence of Provincetown is much more subtle: A quiet town where the people you wave to on your morning walk are the same ones you dance the night away with that evening. The way people blend and gel into a community is similar to the way Victor’s restaurant fits like a missing puzzle piece just beyond Commercial Street, amidst a condominium development that he helped create.

Much like the reserved historical architecture of the shops and restaurants on Commercial Street, Victor’s refined interior and exterior design is very natural and welcoming, as if it were a beach house that had been in Depoala’s family for generations Depoala created the restaurant from scratch. Prior to dinner, he explained how he met his talented chef, Mike Fennelly, a story which speaks to the power of coincidence, as well as the communal nature of Provincetown.

“We met at the gym. I was talking about the idea for this place in the locker room, and Mike told me he was a chef. I looked him up online and was absolutely impressed.”

Fennelly’s innovative and creative style has been praised in dozens of popular food and cooking blogs, not mention Food and Wine Magazine and numerous other national publications. As noted on Victor’s website, Fennelly “takes pride in using as many local and organic ingredients as possible.” This appreciation and support of the local economy is something Depoala and the rest of the people of Provincetown hold dearly in the struggle to stay rooted in community, while growing in new directions and enticing curious travelers.

And there’s no better way to impress the locals and entice travelers than by pairing a delicious menu with a casual atmosphere. Visitor’s dressed in t-shirts or airy summer dresses, faces still gleaming with suntan lotion and flip flops dusted with sand, noshed on upscale fare such as Seafood Cakes served with local greens in a Champagne vinaigrette, Green and Yellow Pasta Ribbon filled with 3 cheeses and roasted vegetables, and Braised Short Ribs over vegetable quinoa. With a little help from a Passionate Margarita or a Bellini Fling, two of Victor’s signature cocktails mixed with freshly-squeezed juices, the relaxed vibe flowed through the dining room as people passed plates back and forth, exclaiming “You have to try this!” Sharing is highly contagious: One almost feels comfortable offering the crispy end of a Lobster Spring Roll to the neighboring table, or nabbing a bite of someone else’s carrot cake on their way out the door.

So how does Depoala plan to leave his mark on Provincetown? By continuing to do what he’s already done: capture the essence of the community without disrupting its rich history. His restaurant is a departure from his condominiums, but his foresight and irrepressible creativity have made the restaurant a welcomed addition to Provincetown’s rich culture.

TELEPHONE(508) 487 1777

Victor’s
175 Bradford Street Ext
Provincetown, MA 02657

WEBSITE: www.victorsptown.com

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